Choosing in order to use n scale flexible track instead of regular sectional pieces will be one of those decisions that completely changes how your layout looks and works. If you've ever looked at a model railroad and thought the curves appeared just a little too "toy-like, " the culprit was probably the fixed radius of sectional track. Flex track is the antidote to that. It gives you the freedom to produce long, sweeping curves that mimic real life, but it also comes with a bit of a learning curve that could be frustrating if you dive in with out a plan.
I remember the 1st time I tried to manhandle a three-foot length of rail. I thought I possibly could simply nail it straight down and be completed with it. Within ten minutes, I acquired a kinked ankle, a sore browse, and also a rail that had popped away of the small plastic spikes. It takes a little endurance, but once a person get the hang of it, you'll probably never go back to all those pre-bent pieces once again.
Why Flex Track is the Better Choice
Let's be sincere, sectional track is definitely great for a fast setup on the dining room table, but it's pretty restricting. With n scale flexible track , a person aren't stuck with 11-inch or 19-inch radii. You are able to generate easements—those gradual changes from a straight line into the curve—which not only look more expert but actually help keep your locomotives on the side rails.
One more huge plus is usually the decrease in electric gaps. Every time you connect two items of track, you're creating a potential point of failure for the physical positioning as well as the electrical continuity. Since flex track usually comes in 30-inch or 36-inch lengths, you might have considerably fewer joints in order to worry about. Less joints mean smoother running and less spots where your locomotive might stutter since it lost get in touch with to get a split minute.
Choosing Your Code: 80 vs. 55
Just before you go out there and buy a mass box of track, you should decide upon the "code. " In N scale, this usually comes down to Code 80 or Program code 55. This amount refers to the height from the rail within thousandths of an inch.
Code eighty will be the old-school regular. It's rugged, simple to find, and fits almost any rolling stock ever made. The downside? The rail is formally far too tall with regard to N scale. This looks a little bit like the teach is running upon "I-beams" rather when compared to the way realistic rails.
Code 55 , on the other hands, looks fantastic. It's much closer to the scale height of real-world train. However, it's the bit more delicate, and when you have got older trains with deep "pizza cutter" flanges within the tires, they might strike the plastic spikes on Code fifty five track. Most modern stuff from brand names like Kato or Atlas runs fine on it, but it's something to keep in mind. If you want realism, go with Code 55. If you prefer a "tank-proof" layout that deals with older gear, Code 80 is your buddy.
The fundamental Tool set
You can't just use a pair of regular wire cutters on n scale flexible track . If you try out, you'll crush the particular rail ends, and you'll spend the particular next hour trying to file them back into a shape that really fits a joiner. You need the dedicated pair associated with flush cutters, frequently called "track nippers. " Xuron may be the brand most individuals swear by, and regarding good reason. These people cut the rail clean and toned.
Beyond the cutters, you'll wish: * A fine-tooth metal file with regard to smoothing your burrs. * Small needle-nose pliers. * Track gauges (to create sure the side rails don't spread too far or nip in). * Soldering iron and thin diameter solder. * Weights or track pins to keep issues in place as the glue dries.
Managing the "Sliding Rail"
When you pick up the piece of n scale flexible track , you'll notice that will one rail is fixed firmly in order to the plastic ties while the other rail can slide back and on. This is deliberate. When you bend the track straight into a curve, the particular inner rail requires to be "shorter" compared to outer rail.
The particular golden rule right here is to usually keep the moving rail on the particular inside associated with the curve. As you bend the track, the sliding rail will start to poke away past the finish of the plastic material ties. This is actually a great thing. It provides you a clean place to cut plus join. If a person try to put the sliding rail on the exterior, you'll find the particular track much more difficult to shape, and it'll be vulnerable to springing back into a direct line.
Avoiding the Dreaded Twist
The most common mistake when laying n scale flexible track happens in the joints between two items on a shape. If you just join them plus then attempt to flex them, you'll almost certainly get the sharp "V" form on the joint. Your own trains will hate this. It's the particular number one cause of derailments on custom made layouts.
You can find two ways to handle this. The first is to stagger your own joints. Instead associated with having both the left and right rails end in the same place, cut them so the joints are a number of inches apart. This particular makes the track much stronger and makes it to hold a smooth curve.
The 2nd method is to solder the 2 pieces associated with flex track together while these are still straight. Once the solder has cooled plus the joint is solid, then you bend it because one long device. This prevents the ends from "dog-legging. " Just be sure you've filed the shared smooth so the wheels don't hop since they pass over.
Securing the particular Track to the particular Roadbed
Presently there are a lot of opinions upon how to really stick the track down. Some guys love the traditional small track nails. They're great because they're mechanical and a person can pull them up if you make a mistake. But within N scale, those nail heads may look pretty large and unsightly.
A lot associated with modern modelers have got moved toward making use of a thin coating of latex caulk. You spread this out very thin—almost translucent—lay your n scale flexible track into it, and then weight it down with soups cans or weighty books while it cures. It keeps the track tightly but also provides the little bit associated with sound dampening. Plus, if you ever need in order to move the track, you can usually slide a putty knife under this and pop up without destroying the particular rails.
Wiring and Electrical Feeders
Don't rely on the metal railroad joiners to bring power through your own entire layout. Over time, those joiners loosen up, obtain dusty, or oxidize, and suddenly your own train is moving at the far finish of the loop.
The greatest practice is to solder "feeder wires" in order to your n scale flexible track every few feet. I like in order to solder them to the particular bottom of the rail before I lay it down, or the outside of the railroad web where they could be hidden by ballast later. It's a bit of extra work upfront, but it will save you through the headache of chasing down "dead spots" 6 months later when your scenery is already finished.
Get Your Time with all the Ballast
After the track is lower and you've examined it with your most finicky train locomotive (we all possess that certain four-axle switcher that hates poor track), it's time for ballast. This particular is where your own n scale flexible track actually starts to look like genuine.
The secret is to use a fine-grade ballast and prevent getting any glue within the "points" of your turnouts or on the inside of the railroad heads. A mix of drinking water, a little meal soap, and a few matte medium or white glue is the standard recipe. Just remember: as soon as you ballast and stuff, that track is definitely staying put. Double-check your curves and joints one final time before a person commit.
Working with flex track is definitely really an art than a science. Your first few foot might look just a little wonky, but when you've finished the room-sized layout, you'll be a pro. The result—a design with realistic, flowing lines and smooth-running trains—is well worth the extra effort.